Views and Aspects of the City of London Cemetery (2) Memorials
On this page I have included some of the memorials - monuments, graves and plaques - to those buried, cremated or commemorated here
The cemetery does not contain a large number of notable persons - perhaps the most visited memorial these days might be to the footballer Bobby Moore. Others include five possible victims of 'Jack the Ripper': Emma Elizabeth Smith, Annie Millwood, Martha Tabram, Mary Ann Nichols and Catherine Eddowes, as well as Alfred Lawrence Foster, one of the police inspectors who dealt with these cases. Joseph Carey Merrick, sometimes mis-named John Merrick, is also buried here, although his skeleton resides in Barts Hospital. Sadly, he is perhaps best known as 'The Elephant Man'. The cemetery is notable, however, for the large number of re-burials of remains from the City of London churches. The City churchyards were full - sometimes overflowing - with remains. A number of cemeteries were built around London at about this time to relieve the pressure, and some the remains were transferred to the City of London Cemetery and are often marked with a grand monument.
An on-line search may well result in many photographs of some of the grander monuments, or to those more well-known people, but I hope to include some lesser-known - and less grand - graves and memorials and some other aspects that I have found interesting, too. All of the photographs were taken by myself.
Buildings in the cemetery, other than memorials, are here
Other Features of the Cemetery are available here
LIEUTENANT COLONEL WILLIAM HAYWOOD MAUSOLEUM
The Haywood Mausoleum
William Haywood (1821-1894) was an architect and engineer and surveyor to the City of London Commissioners of Sewers, and was the the designer of the cemetery. His mausoleum is a short distance inside the main gate, along Chapel Avenue and on the left.
This is an imposing Grade II listed building (* List Entry Number: 1190633) , with inscriptions on the side panels stating that within are the ashes of William Haywood and his wife Jemima Emma Haywood. Interestingly, if you look through the entance doorway railings, a bust of William is on the left, and one of his wife on the right. Below each of those is a niche for a container for the ashes. That of Jemima has a casket containing - presumably - the ashes, but the receptacle for William is clearly empty. This seems to suggest that - contrary to the statements on the exterior of the building, his ashes are not contained therein. Both were cremated at Woking.
Further research into William Haywood has shown him to be a very interesting character - and that Jemima was in fact not married to him but was his Common Law wife.
Exterior inscription for William Haywood
Exterior inscription for Jemima Haywood
Interior of William Haywood Mausoleum
Colonel William Sedgwick Saunders
WILLIAM SEDGWICK SAUNDERS MEMORIAL
Almost opposite the Haywood Mausoleum is a classic-style memorial to William Sedgwick Saunders (1825-1901).
He was the Medical Officer of Health for the City of London, a position which relates intrinsically with the creation of the cemetery. The City of London's graveyards were too full, and it was realised that there was a health risk from the decaying corpses that were often buried shallowly with only a few inches of soil-cover. It was for this reason that land was found to create a large new burial place, big enough not just for the City itself, but the neighbouring areas.
PEDLEY VAULTS
The Pedley Vaults are situated either side of Anchor Road, NE of the Church and on the way to the Chapel. These two large structures face each other, and are the only two of their kind in the cemetery.
Joshua Pedley (1829-1910) was born at West Ham, and qualified as a solicitor in 1854. After he moved in the 1860s or 70s to Tottenham, he resided at Trafalgar House in White Hart Lane, living there for the rest of his life. He became very involved in the local community, including several charities; following the ethics of well-off people of the time he was quite a philanthropist.
The vault facing those of the Pedley Family are dedicated to Hasluck.
Pedley Family Vault
Hasluck Vault
St. Andrews Holborn and St. Sepulchre Holborn Memorial
MEMORIAL TO THE DECEASED OF ST ANDREWS AND ST SEPULCHRE HOLBORN
This is perhaps the largest memorial in the cemetery, and was designed by William Haywood. It is a Listed Building Grade:II in the Historic England Register (List Entry Number:1080987)
Burial remains from the two churchyards - St. Andrews Holborn and St. Sepulchre Holborn - were removed to the City of London Cemetery in 1866. The churchyards were extremely overcrowded, and the land was due for redevolopment. Between eleven and twelve thousand bodies were removed from St. Andrew’s alone. (1)
City Dragon - or GriffinOn the four corners of the monument are carvings of mythical creatures. These appear to be representations of the 'Griffin' symbol which is used to represent the City of London. This symbol - although commonly referred to as a Griffin or Gryphon - is more correctly a Dragon.(2) A griffin is described as having the body of a lion and the head of an eagle. The Coat of Arms of the City has a pair of dragons, together with the Cross of St George.
Memorial to the re-interred from the Church of St Peter, Paul's Wharf, City of London
CHURCH OF ST. PETER, PAUL'S WHARF
Something of a contrast to the great monument to St Andrews and St Sepulchre, the remains of those reinterred from the Church of St Peter, Paul's Wharf in the City of London is marked only by a single flat slab.
The church was destroyed by fire during the Great Fire of London in 1666.
Parts of the inscription are difficult to read because of moss-growth but is something like this:
ANNO DOMINI (????)
IN THE GROUND ARE RE-INTERRED / THE EARTHLY REMAINS OF PERSONS / BURIED IN THE FORMER CHURCH YARD / (OF) (ST) PETER, PAUL'S WHARF IN THE / CITY OF LONDON
(THEN) (SHALL) MY REDEEMER COMETH
Memorial St Olave-Jewry and St Martin-Pomeroy
ST. OLAVE-JEWRY AND ST. MARTIN POMEROY
Situated north of the Church is the memorial to the re-interred remains of persons buried originally at St. Olave-Jewry and St. Martin-Pomeroy Churches in London.
Apparently, St. Martin Pomeroy was the correct name of the second of the churches, but the inscription on the memorial clearly reads 'POMERY'
The text reads:
SACRED / TO THE / MEMORY OF THE PERSONS / BURIED IN THE CHURCH OF THE / UNITED PARISHES OF /
S.OLAVE-JEWRY / AND / S.MARTIN-POMERY
IN THE CITY OF LONDON / WHOSE REMAINS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE / CHURCH BEING TAKEN DOWN UNDER / THE UNION OF BENEFICES /ACT 23 & 24 VICT CAP 142.
WERE REMOVED THEREFROM AND / RE-INTERRED AT THIS SPOT / ANNO DOMINI 1889 / THE NAMES OF SUCH AS COULD BE / ASCERTAINED ARE INSCRIBED ON / THE SIDE HEREOF /
J.A.PLUMMER / EDWIN FOX / CHURCHWARDENS
Christ's Hospital MemorialCHRIST'S HOSPITAL MEMORIAL
Christ's Hospital was founded in London by King Edward VI in 1552, and moved to Horsham in Sussex in 1902. The cemetery was in Christchurch Greyfriars Churchyard, in Newgate Street opposite St. Paul's Cathedral.
I am uncertain whether any remains of persons buried there were actually reinterred in the City of London Cemetery, but there is a memorial to some of those persons.
One face of the memorial includes the following text:
ERECTED / BY THE / GOVERNORS OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL / LONDON / TO THE MEMORY OF...
followed by a list of names.
The Vigiland Memorial
THE VIGILAND MEMORIAL
Another well-known and impressive memorial, that to Ordinary Seaman David John Vigiland R.N., a 20 year old mariner who died of an illness while serving in Mombasa, Kenya.
He was buried in the military cemetery section of Mombasa Cemetery in 1946, as per naval policy, but his parents wanted the body to be brought home to England. At first this was refused but after a campaign by his father, John Vigiland, the body was returned to the UK and reinterred here on December 9th 1952.
The memorial was carved in Italy from a single 25 ton block of Carrera (Tuscany) marble, and dedicated in 1955. It is based on Rubens’ painting The Descent from the Cross. The Carrera marble should appear a bright white, but even since refurbishment and cleaning in 2002, it is soon darkened by pollution.
On the back of the monument are some photographs of John and his mother and father.
First World War Memorial GravesWAR GRAVES
After the First World War the Imperial War Graves Commision laid out an enclosure on St. Dionis Road for the graves and relatively simple headstones of some of those killed in that war. The simplicity of the designs of the headstones - although they do vary - was in contrast to many of the preceeding memorials of Victorian times - often grand and individualistic in design. The simpler and more uniform designs of the war graves set a trend towards the practice of what are known as 'Lawn Graves', and areas of land not used for burials before were brought into use to accomodate the burials, with just a headstone to mark the grave.
French Hospital Memorial
THE FRENCH HOSPITAL MEMORIAL
This is an imposing rough-cut granite rock, with two inset panels. The circular top one has the following text:
THE BURIAL GROUND OF THE / HOSPITAL FOR POOR FRENCH PROTESTANTS / AND THEIR DESCENDANTS / (INCORPORATED 1718)
The lower rectanglar panel reads:
HERE REST MANY CHILDREN OF THE STRANGER WHOSE LAST DAYS / WERE SPENT AT THE HOSPITAL OR HOSPICE FOUNDED BY FRENCH PROTESTANT / REFUGEES EARLY IN THE XV111 CENTURY FOR THE RECEPTION AND CARE OF THE / POOR AND AGED AMONG THEIR FELLOW EXILES AND THEIR DESCENDANTS /
WHEN THE SON OF MAN SHALL COME IN HIS GLORY, AND ALL THE HOLY ANGELS WITH HIM / THEN SHALL HE SIT UPON THE THRONE OF HIS GLORY AND BEFORE HIM SHALL BE GATHERED / ALL NATIONS / MATT XXV 3132
The family grave of John Thomas Bedford
FAMILY GRAVE OF JOHN THOMAS BEDFORD
John Thomas Bedford was a member of the Court of Common Council of the Corporation of London. He contributed articles under the pseudonym of "Robert the Waiter" to The London Charivari, or Punch Magazine.
The family grave lies to the SE of the Church, and the inscription reads:
JOHN THOMAS BEDFORD / WHO DIED 1ST MARCH 1900 / AGED 87 YEARS
HE WAS FOR 31 YEARS A MEMBER OF THE CORPORATION OF THE / CITY OF LONDON AND DEVOTED / HIMSELF ZEALOUSLY AND SUCCESSFULLY TO THE / PRESERVATION OF EPPING FOREST, WEST HAM PARK / AND BURNHAM BEECHES FOR THE / HEALTHFUL ENJOYMENT AND RECREATION OF / THE PEOPLE
Robert Hunter Memorial
ROBERT HUNTER MEMORIAL
Robert Hunter was a lexicographer, missionary, geologist and a naturalist. There is a Blue Plaque at 7 Staples Road in Loughton stating that he lived there.
The memorial is located on North Boundary Road, between Memorial Avenue and Belfry Road, and reads:
TO THE MEMORY / OF THE REVEREND / ROBERT HUNTER M.A.LL.D.F.C.S. / AUTHOR OF / NUMEROUS WORKS BESIDES / THE ENCYCLOPAEDIC DICTIONARY /
A MONUMENT OF / INDUSTRIOUS SCHOLARSHIP / BORN AT NEWBURGH FIFESHIRE / SEPT 3 1823 / DIED AT / FOREST RETREAT, LOUGHTON ESSEX / FEB 5 1897 / GENTLE, LEARNED, MODEST, DEVOUT / IN SOUL HE NEVER CEASED TO BE A CHILD
EMMA ELIZABETH SMITH, ANNIE MILLWOOD, MARTHA TABRAM, MARY ANN NICHOLS, CATHERINE EDDOWES, ALFRED LAWRENCE FOSTER
There are five plaques in Gardens Way commemorating victims or possible victims of the Whitechapel murderer who became known as 'Jack the Ripper', and one of the police inspector - Alfred Lawrence Foster - who dealt with the case of Catherine Eddowes.
These five victims are known to have been buried near to where the plaques are placed. Where the Memorial Gardens are now were once an area of Common Graves. The graves themselves lie undisturbed, and may even be under Gardens Way now. It is common to see flowers and coins laid on the plaques.
A Common Grave, by the way, is a grave in which multiple people are buried at the same time. This could be for a variety of reasons, but may include anyone who couldn’t afford their own private plot, the homeless, suicides or criminals.
Emma Elizabeth Smith and Annie Millwood
Adjacent plaques in memory of Emma Elizabeth Smith and Annie Millwood. These were only placed in the cemetery in 2023, as part of the cemetery's 'Heritage Trail'
Emma Elizabeth Smith may have been the first of the victims of 'Jack the Ripper', during what were known as 'The Whitechapel Murders', being found murdered on 4th April 1888. Annie Millwood was admitted to Whitechapel infirmary having suffered from numerous stab wound. She survived the attack, but died of unrelated natural causes just a month later.
Martha Tabram
Martha Tabram was an early victim of the person who became known as Jack the Ripper. She died on 7th August 1888.
Mary Ann Nichols
Mary Ann Nichols - known as 'Polly' - was one the first of the victims. She died on 31st August 1888.
Catherine Eddowes
Catherine Eddowes is said to have been the the fourth victim. She died on 30th September 1888. The plaque has been in place for some years and - as with that of Mary Ann Nichols - commonly has coins or flowers placed upon it.
Superintendent Alfred Lawrence Foster
Superintendent Alfred Foster of the City of London Police, was called upon to deal with the murder of Catherine Eddowes on September 30th 1888. He retired from the police force at the age of 67 on 26th May 1892, and died on 13th December 1895.
Joseph Merrick - The Elephant Man
JOSEPH MERRICK - THE ELEPHANT MAN
Joseph Carey Merrick, sometimes mis-named John Merrick,is perhaps better known as 'The Elephant Man'. He suffered from a bone deformity, which may have been the result of a very rare disease known as Proteus syndrome.
He is commemorated in the City of London Cemetery by just a plaque mounted on a small concrete pedestal. It reads - simply - IN MEMORIAM / JOSEPH MERRICK / 1862-1890. His resting place is unremarkable, situated in a plot of similar memorials on the north side of Gardens Way, Only in 2024 was a memorial plaque placed in the grass by the pedestal. Although the rest of his remains are buried here, his skeleton resides in Barts Hospital, London.
These are the Memorial Gardens, and often there is an accompanying rose-bush to the memorial pedestals.
The Grave of Elizabeth Ann Everest, Winston Churchill's nannyELIZABETH ANN EVEREST - SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL'S NANNY
On the south side of Poplar Road, close to the junction with Memorial avenue, is the quite unremarkable grave of Elizabeth Ann Everest. Below the simple inscription of her name, date of death and age, is inscribed 'BY WILLIAM SPENCER CHURCHILL / AND'. What follows the 'And' is now below the ground level, but I understand that it reads 'JACK SPENCER CHURCHILL'. Jack was Winston's younger brother.
Inscription on Elizabeth Ann Everest's graveElizabeth was Winston Churchill's nanny, and she remained with the family from 1875 until 1893.When she died in 1895, Churchill attended the funeral service, and he paid for the headstone. It is said that his son, Randolph, wrote, "For many years afterwards he paid an annual sum to the local florist for the upkeep of the grave." (3)
Gladys Spencer - The Piano Lady
GLADYS SPENCER - THE PIANO LADY
Gladys Spencer was a respected local piano teacher, living nearby in Manor Park. She died in 1934, aged just 34.
As well as teaching piano, she also trained child dancers and performers at the Classical Academy of Music and dance in Rixsen Road, Manor Park.
This is one of the more visited graves in the cemetery, although it isn't very easy for the gate-staff to direct people to, as her grave is set amongst many in a not-too-obvious part of the cemetery.
Apart from the monuments relating to the remains reinterred from the City churches, only two are mentioned in Pevsner Architectural Guides: Buildings of England - London East (2005): that of William Haywood and that of the Piano Lady: (The City of London Cemetery)…..mostly obelisks and angels on pedestals provide the principal accents. An eccentricity is the memorial to Gladys Spencer 1931 with piano and reclining figure”
Nurse Annie Catherine Brewster
ANNIE CATHERINE BREWSTER
This grave looks quite new when the photograph was taken in 2023, but it had recently been restored.
Annie Brewster was born in St Vincent in the West Indies in 1858. In 1881 she became a probationer nurse in the London Hospital, and was promoted to nurse in charge of the Ophthalmic Wards in 1888. She served in that position until she died in 1902, aged 43 years.
The Company of Nurses and the Royal British Nurses’ Association, together with the Corporation of London and Barts NHS Trust, worked together to restore the grave as a memorial to was one of the first people of African/Caribbean origin to become a nurse in England. A ceremony to mark the restoration took place on 29th March 2022. (4)
Thanks to Gary Burks, the then Superintendent of the Cemetery, for pointing this interesting grave out to me.
Bobby Moore's Memorial
John Roberts - Father of Modern Billiards
JOHN ROBERTS - 'THE FATHER OF MODERN BILLIARDS'
Another memorial that has perhaps a more familiar interest. My thanks to one of the cemetery gate-keeper staff who showed this memorial to me. The inscription reads:
Grave to Ron Smith
RONALD SMITH's GRAVE
Just north of the Church is a recent grave to 'Ron' Smith (1939 - 2021). On the grave ledger is sculpted an open book with a lengthy poem, describing the man. It begins:
DON'T CRY FOR ME
JUST A ROMANY BOY FROM MANOR PARK
DRIVING HORSES AND HAVING A LARK
GROWING UP EAGER, WITH MONEY TO GET
THE LOVE OF GAMBLING AND HAVING A BET
This is an example of the rarer-these-days traditional style of comemmorating the dead in a grand manner, and in a somewhat prime position near the Church.
'Amos'
AMOS GRAVE
This is another fairly recent grave. I first became aware of it in July 2020.
It is a grand and traditional-style grave with an impressively tall headstone. However, the headstone has only one word - the name 'AMOS' - in bas-relief at the top, and at the bottom a bas-relief figure of a cockerel.
On the sloping left-side of the grave slab is an image of a hare, and on the right is a racing-cart, or 'sulky'. At the front is a sleeping 'long' dog - perhaps a lurcher or greyhound.
The back of the main upright has an unusual surprise. Written onto the white marble are three lines of text, the middle a quote from Shakespeare's Hamlet.
The whole presents an extravagent and notable image of a man who was fond of the open-air life, and of hunting and sporting, especially when you see that the cockerel has an artificial spur attached.
I assume that there is more to be written about Amos - and that the grave and memorial is just waiting ready for its occupant.
James O'Neill's grave, with a tomb to Browne alongsideJAMES O'NEILL GRAVE
Nearby is another imposing modern grave, to James O'Neill (Died 2012), showing an Irish connection.
Part of the inscription reads:
'IN LOVING MEMORY OF
A HUSBAND, DADDY AND GRANDADDY'
Also in the photograph, the adjacent memorial (to the left) is very different in style but in the same grey marble which has become popular in recent years.
Buildings in the cemetery, other than memorials, are here
Other Features of the Cemetery are available here
Paul Ferris (begun 28th February 2023)
References:
* Grade Listed Buildings: https://historicengland.org.uk/
(1) A Geological Walk in the City of London Cemetery. Wendy Kirk and David Cook. Aldersbrook Geological Society
(2) https://hidden-london.com/nuggets/city-of-london-dragons/
(3) Coughlin, Con (2013). Churchill's First War: Young Winston at War with the Afghans. New York: St. Martin's Press. p. 63.
(4) https://www.companyofnurses.co.uk/annie-brewster-remembered/
(5) The City of London Cemetry Heritage Brochure (Edition 2, 2004)