Aldersbrook
Aldersbrook Bridle Path
Aldersbrook Bridle Path is more commonly known in the area simply as the Bridle Path, but these days perhaps it is increasingly not referred to at all.
The path mainly follows the southern, eastern and part of the northern boundary of the City of London Cemetery. (map) It should perhaps be noted here that it is not shown on the Ordnance Survey map as an actual bridle path - that is to say a path that may be used by horses and bicycles as well as pedestrians. Certainly I have known cyclists to use it, in the past I've known cattle to use it, but have never encountered a horse.
The southern and much of the eastern route of the path appears to be situated within the London Borough of Newham, and as such should be maintained as a public highway by them. The northern stretch, which forms the boundary between Newham and Redbridge, it seems should be maintained by Redbridge. This last section was from 2008 until the Summer of 2010 very overgrown and in some places impassable.
The Bridle Path - access from Rabbits Road bridge, viewed from Wanstead Flats
To follow the path, it may be convenient to access it from Aldersbrook Road by Wanstead Flats, directly opposite Forest View Road and by the Rabbits Road railway bridge. (see photograph, left) Here, adjacent to the South Gate of the City of London Cemetery, a signpost that indicates no cars and no motorbikes marks the beginning of the bridle path. It drops down slightly for 50 metres or so to turn sharp left as the railway fence is met. For about 500 metres the route is about a metre and a half wide, constricted between the low wall and high railings of the cemetery and an exceedingly unattractive wire fence towering above the original railings that guard the railway lines like a prison-camp fence.
This southern stretch has a variety of trees, shrubs and herbs including ash Fraxinus excelsior, beech Fagus sylvatica, Turkey oak Quercus cerris, sycamore Acer pseudoplatanus and hawthorn Crataegus monogyna; of shrubs, garden privet Ligustrum ovalifolium and firethorn Pyracantha coccinoides are included. The Turkey oak probably derives from trees in the adjacent cemetery, and the firethorn is probably bird-sown. Other plants include white dead-nettle Lamium album, red dead-nettle Lamium purpureum and shepherd's purse Capsella bursa-pastoris. A list which includes plants found along the bridle path is available here. At the far end of this stretch, nearer the brook itself, hop Humulus lupulus is draped high over the fencing of both the railway and the cemetery. It would be interesting to think that this might have associations with Whitbread's depot that used to be across the railway in Little Ilford, but this was a bottling and distribution depot rather than a brewery, so it is doubtful!
At the south-east corner of the cemetery boundary the bridle path turns left and continues alongside the railings. To the right is the foot-tunnel under the railway, giving access to and from Little Ilford. It is worth looking at the brickwork above the tunnel, for here grow hart's-tongue ferns Phyllitis scolopendrium, otherwise scarce in this area. These have taken advantage of the gaps in the brickwork and any dampness and shade that are to be found on this north-facing surface. The spores are propitiously wafted here by passing trains.
Ahead across the Alders Brook is Ilford Golf Course, which is in the London Borough of Redbridge, beyond that the A406 North Circular Road and beyond that Ilford town centre. For a more detailed look at the Alders Brook, click here.
The bridle path has traditionally continued alongside the cemetery railings, but in 2007 a 2-metre wide hard-surface track was laid as part of the Roding Valley Way. Instead of using the existing path along the edge of the cemetery, the new route was insensitively laid across what was effectively a wildflower meadow. As might have been anticipated, this means that now the original route is becoming overgrown and blocked and it may be noted that there is already a considerable ground-cover of dewberry Rubus caesius which may well invade much of what remains of the meadow.
The area here is known - although less commonly now - as The Butts and continuing northwards eventually the gates of the Bridle Path Allotments are met. It is here, adjacent to the Alders Brook itself, that actual alders Alnus glutinosa grow. It is noted that in 2008, holm oak Quercus ilex is becoming frequent; it was not recorded in 1978. Our path then continues on its original route, now passing between the allotments and the cemetery railings. Before the new path was laid, it must be said that this stretch was sometimes so muddy as to be almost impassable. Now it is comfortable. At the beginning of the stretch are some large crack willow Salix fragilis, a good place to find fungi. Just as the north end of the allotments the Alders Brook is crossed as it exits from the cemetery, and may be seen on the right.
Ahead, as the landscape opens out somewhat between the cemetery and the River Roding, a pleasant aspect presents itself with the hard-surfaced track passing between some nice oaks Quercus robur with the remains of adjacent silver birches Betula pendula.
An alternative to the bridle path may be taken by bearing slightly right, passing through the legs of an electricity pylon; this will lead you to a footpath along the higher bank of the Roding flood defence bund, parallel to the bridle path but with a very different aspect. The River Roding meanders now to one side of its flood plain, which here is the Ilford Golf Course; occasionally - at times of flood - the river reclaims its territory. (photo) The banks of the Roding can be glorious in early summer when bargeman's cabbage Brassica rapa ssp. campestris is in flower, and then a change of colour with cow parsley Anthriscus sylvestris. See here for more on the Roding nearby.
Continuing along the bridle path proper, much of the vegetation that lined it - particularly on the cemetery side - has gone with the creation of the hard surface (see photographs below). With the trees and shrubs between the path and the Roding it is a pleasant enough walk, however. The silver birches Betula pendula that were in this area are now dead or dying; perhaps as a replacement a bird-sown yew Taxus baccata was noted in 2009. An alien species that is occurring more frequently throughout the area is also present: cherry laurel Prunus laurocerasus.
This photograph was taken in 2000, looking north with the cemetery fence on the left.
View from the same location in 2008 after the creation of the Roding Valley Way track.
In some 300 metres, nearing the old concrete fence of the Aldersbrook Exchange Land (the old Redbridge Southern Sewage Works), the new surfaced track does a sudden turn towards the Roding, leaving the original bridle path route, and continues through the entrance to the Exchange Land - now part of Epping Forest. This really is a tragedy; the Exchange Land should not have had a hard-surface track laid upon it, nor should cyclists have been encouraged to use it. It is a haven of peace and tranquility, for wildlife and people alike. The original bridle path needed to be renovated, and could be in itself a most pleasant route. That should have been the track for the Roding Valley Way.
Because of the deviation towards the Exchange Lands, the original bridle path soon became impassable. In early January, 2009 I managed to negotiate it as far as the northern-most corner of the cemetery, but this was a painful and hazardous experience and I was pleased to manage an exit through the railings into the open land then known as Redbridge Field. (Much of this are was subsequently given over to horse paddocks). The route is adjacent to the cemetery railings through a semi-wooded area with many large crack-willow trees Salix fragilis. These tower over and across something of a ditch, quite wide and muddy in places, the far side of which is the remains of the sewage works concrete boundary fence. It is something of a wilderness area, with a host of habitats for birds and animals. In spring there are many daffodils Narcissus spp. that have escaped from the cemetery. At the end of the north-south section, at the corner of the cemetery railings, the path turns left - now narrower and at first with the wood of the Exchange Lands to the right and later Aldersbrook Allotments and then the maisonettes of the circa 1970s residential development.
Aldersbrook Bridle Path - the access off Empress Avenue almost totally blocked in August 2008
Signposting an impassable route
In 2008, this part of the path was in a terrible state. Near the corner (where the Roding Valley Way route should have continued ahead and alongside Redbridge Field (see map) it had become rutted, and everywhere choked with vegetation. Indeed at the path's eventual egress into Empress Avenue, where a signpost indicating a walk to the Roding Valley Way had been placed, it was impossible to access the route from Empress Avenue. It seems that this section of the bridle path, which is on the boundary between the London Boroughs of Redbridge and Newham, is actually administered by Redbridge. If this is the case, it seems that Borough - until Summer of 2010 - did not perform its statutory duties of keeping public highways open - or maybe it isn't a public highway? It was only in late May or early June 2010 that the path was cleared and became possible to traverse again. However, due to the somewhat rudimentary level of clearance, the fact that there was no reinstatement of damaged surfaces and - particularly - the amount of litter that had accumulated blown through from the cemetery, this was not a pleasant experience!
Historically, the route of the Bridle Path is interesting - although I have not researched it in detail. However, I have a cutting (unfortunately from an unknown source) that is worth reading. (click here). Some of the points: there is a bridle path running across the cemetery in 1861. This doesn't follow the line of the existing path but enters the cemetery through what is now the main gate and passes just north of the shoot (the area which was used as a rubbish tip and has since been re-used as a burial area known as Haywoods Lawn) and The Birches nature reserve trending slightly north of east to cross the Roding at a ford. There is actually a footbridge near to this point nowadays which allows golfers access from part of the course the south of the Roding to the Ilford side. "Through the River Roden" : note the spelling and also that the Roding was forded - easy enough when the levels are low. Also, the insistence that the road he was following was a "public road". The rifle-reports off to the right agree with the local name even now of "the Butts", and the accent of the 'countryman' suggests quite an Essex "tang"!
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For a list of the plants which have been found in the Alders Brook area - click here
For a map showing the bridle path - click here
"A Perilous Journey" from Wanstead Flats to Ilford - click here
A history of Aldersbrook Manor
The manor of Aldersbrook lies in the parish of Little Ilford. Most of the lands of the manor now lie within the City of London Cemetery.
Aldersbrook Manor House was situated to the east of the present day catacombs in the City of London Cemetery, about half way between those and the cemetery boundary fence. The Farm House lay some 300 metres to the west of the Manor House, just to the north of the lawns fronting the catacombs. It is known that in 1630 both the Manor House and Farm House were in existence. Until the 16th Century, Aldersbrook manor was part of the manor of Wanstead. It is thought that Wanstead Park was inclosed about 1512, and that Aldersbrook became a separate manor at about that time.
Aldersbrook estate and Wanstead estate seem to have had for long a close connection, though these became boundary disputes in the 16th and 17th centuries. For a map showing the relative positions of these estates, click here.
Heron Family, The Crown, Knevett, Addington, Dudley
The family of Heron held the estate for some time, and the name is still remembered in association with Wanstead : the heron is a symbol that can be seen on the walls of Wanstead High School. Sir John Heron was keeper of the estate until his death in 1521; he also held lands in Wanstead and it is reputed that he brought herons to the area. There is a pane of glass showing a heron in an old round window in Little Ilford Church, closely associated with the Aldersbrook Estate. (photo)
In 1530 the estate's keeper was Sir Giles Heron, son-in-law to Sir Thomas Moore. In 1532 Sir Giles sold Aldersbrook to the Crown. At that time it was called Naked Hall (Hawe), or Alderbroke. He was executed in 1540 when he refused to acknowledge the religious supremacy of the King.
In 1535 the King granted the estate to Anthony Knevett and his wife; and in 1544 the crown sold the estate to Katherine Addington. A number of purchasers held the estate until it was sold in 1585 to Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. Dudley already owned the manor of Wanstead. Again, the estate was purchased by a succession of owners.
Lethieullier, Hulse, Tylney-Long, Aldersbrook Farm
In 1693 John Lethieullier purchased the estate, and in 1701 Smart Lethieullier was born at the manor house, the estate passing to him in 1737. He was an antiquarian and wrote with affection of Aldersbrook; it is recorded that he built a 'hermitage' to house his antiquities. He died in 1760 and his memorial is in Little Ilford Church. In 1786 the Manor House was disposed of by his heir, Sir Edward Hulse, to Sir James Tylney Long (Lord Wellesley) of Wanstead Park, so was once again merged with the manor of Wanstead. He pulled down the mansion and built a farmhouse on the site. The farmhouse was demolished shortly after 1854 when the City of London Corporation acquired much of the land for the City of London Cemetery, and also gained rights over Wanstead Flats eventually leading to the preservation of Epping Forest. A small part of the Aldersbrook estate not sold to James Tylney Long continued as Aldersbrook Farm. In a small area of land by Aldersbrook Road, separated off from Wanstead Flats, a new farm house was built in about 1863 to serve the small portion of Aldersbrook Farm still remaining after the sell-off. The area is still enclosed on three sides by a wall, within which now lies the houses of Heatherwood Close and Aldersbrook Filling Station.
Maps and Plans
A number of maps of the Manor exist. The map surveyed in 1723 by Adam Holt (*1) for John Lethieullier shows the Great Pond, the Warren House (Farm House) and the Mansion House. The second map, surveyed in 1725, shows much greater detail and suggests that extensive garden and boundary walls had been constructed. A 1748 survey by John Noble for Smart Lethieullier shows rebuilt boundary walls with the addition of a Terrace, the 'Great Canal' (a vast ornamental lake), and the 'Fish Pond'. The last map, surveyed in 1816 by John Doyley, (click here) is notable for its omission of the 'Great Canal' and 'Fish Pond', although it show 'The Great Pond'.
Archaeological Excavation
Much of the information relating to the maps and layout was derived from an article (*2) of 1976 describing archaeological excavations that took place in 1972-73 on the line of the Roding Valley Sewer. The excavated finds - examined primarily by Miss P.M.Wilkinson of the Passmore Edwards Museum - relate to the latter part of the occupancy of the Lethieullier family. Diagram of Aldersbrook Manor and Farm
*1) Gardener to Sir Richard Child, who rebuilt Wanstead House in 1715. Adam Holt appears to have been something of both a landscape artist and an engineer. See also "Wanstead Park - Lake System" and "Wanstead Watercourses: the "River Holt" .
*2) ESSEX ARCHAEOLOGY AND HISTORY VOLUME 8, 1976; Excavations at Aldersbrook Manor, Essex, 1972-73; by J. P. CAMP